Its time to start my next project. Given I spend most weekends at the wakeboard cable it is time to make a cable specific board. Here is what I have planned
142 x 42cm
Rocker - 70mm
Concave - 0mm
Inserts set for bindings rather than footpads
Durasurf / Snowboard base material for hitting kickers and sliders
Cedar strip core with poplar reinforcements for binding inserts and possibly a couple of poplar stringers for more pop
Should be picking up some wood on Friday so I can make a start this weekend.
I will try and post pictures of every step this time to give a full build thread
Hello..any progress on your board? mine zero bc im still bloody waiting for the gorilla glue to arrive. I have everything else incl Fiberglass and epoxy and everything but no glue yet. I even cleaned the whole garage...
Also i went kiting on sat to camber but somehow i couldnt fit my feet into the board with the boots so i took them off while kite was in my hands (very delicate and difficult process in that cold) and as soon as i put my feet in the water i realised it was a very bad idea...so i ended up freezing my @ss off and not kiting as i had no feeling in my feet). i hate this weather Did you by any chance found any left over abs? i still havent managed ot find that. worse case i will invent a solution to pour epoxy...if i just had some plastic around i could create a kind of a border (like if it was routed but it's just put next to the outline of the board) i have ideas but without materials i cannot pull it off.
No progress on mine as I am out of the country with work.
The ABS I have is 170cm long by 9mm by 16mm, I have 2 strips of it, cost me a tenner but you can have it for a fiver as i probably wont ever use it, did you want some inserts as well? drop me an email with your address.
You could try cutting out your shape from your blank full size, then trim it down by the size of the rail, and now you have your board minus a rail and an outline to pour your rail into, just need to seal the gap in the bottom to prevent the resin flowing out. Not sure how though - every type of tape I have tried to contain resin with has debonded pretty much instantly. Polyurethane seems to be ok with masking tape and gaffer tape.
When you cut the board outline do this by drilling a hole along the outline big enough to fit your jigsaw blade into instead of starting sawing from the outside of the blank if that make sense.
I'm pretty sure you can buy gorilla glue in Homebase.
Cold feet? should have taken the straps off not the boots!
Rough sand with the belt sander to remove the excess glue
Then put pencil lines over and gave it a second sand to highlight any low spots
Repeated a couple of times until nice and flat then marked up the centre lines
Cut my template out of 4mm ply, rough cut with the jigsaw then tarted it up with the surform and belt sander. I made a quarter template to keep everything symetrical
Template clamped down to the centre lines
Then countersunk some screws through the fin positions to lock everything in place, the countersinking is to make sure the router glides over them
The template is the final size of the board minus the distance from the edge of this guide plate to the far side of the router bit, 18mm in all
So off I went with the router following the outline, the guide plate stops you cutting into the board but doesn't help with the router wandering off track away from the board, but you get there eventually
Fin reinforcement holes were done with an 18mm forstner bit in the drill
I use gaffer tape on the other side of the board where the forstner bit tip has gone through to stop the polurethane escaping
Rail is poured with polyurethane, just the fin reinforcements to go
It will be ready to cut out and start shaping in a couple of hours, except it will be dark by then
wow u made so much progress in one day!! u nearly done...it seems.
ok i see everything u did what i dont get is why did u drill fin reinforcments holes? i thought u just drill the hole but it seems u might put inserts in the fins same as in the footstraps holes?
There is a huge amount of stress that goes through the fin screws and core materials are relatively weak. So it makes sense to put something strong where the fins mount, I use polyurethane some use epoxy. The idea is to create a strong / stiff area that you then drill through to mount the fins, no inserts required. Hope this makes sense
A quick blast round with the belt sander to reveal the rail
You can see where the router tracked off away from the template, the inside line of the rail is nice and accurate so I use that as my guide when trimming.
Poured the fin reinforcements
The great thing with polyurethane is you seem to be able to use it what ever the weather, it is +1 degrees C here and it still goes off
Now off for a bit of lunch whilst the polyurethane cures, then time to cut it out and start shaping this afternoon
wowww i cant believe you nearly finishedddd - i mean seriously you are quick. i guess once i learn and do one the second will be easier. the things also i have to learn are basically everything. i know nothing. for example how do i know how big the size if the hole needs to be for the fins and how do i know what screws i need to use. for example can i do like you the hole of 18mm fill it with epoxy and then just use the same fins/screws of another board i have already? all these little things are difficult if u dont know the first time.
the other thing is why do u screw the template to the core? so that it doesnt move and u can use a guide to cut? and how deep do u actually go inside the core when u screw the template to it (what length screw did u use)?
You can make the fin reinforcement holes any size you like as long as they are bigger than the screws for the fins which are usually 5 or 6 mm, yes you can use the screws you already have for the fins.
You are right, I screw the template to the core so it doesnt move when I am using the router, it doesnt matter how far you screw into the core as the fin reinforcements go all the way through the finished board. with yours you shouldn't need to screw the template onto the core as you aren't creating a channel, you can just lay the template on and draw around it then cut out the core with a saw.
ok thanks for the advice. one more question for tonight how do i shape the profile from thick in the middle to thin at the tips? u do it with the router but u said i can do in different ways depending what tools i have (only have sander and jigsaw and drills)
Hard work is the answer!
I would get yourself one of these
http://m.diy.com/mt/www.diy.com/nav/fix/handtools-storage-workwear/handtools/planes-chisels-files/planes/-specificproducttype-planes/Stanley-Surform-Block-Plane-9284963?noCookies=false&action=detail&tab=rev&un_jtt_redirect It makes taking down the wood a little easier, or just go at it with the sander with really coarse grit paper. You need a keen eye to profile so keep checking what you have done from multiple angles to make sure you are on track.
You could make yourself guide points in the wood, never tried this as I have literally just thought of it:
Mark lines across the width of your board blank 10cm apart
Drill holes along these to the depth you want to take it down to for example if your blank is 16mm thick and you want the tip to be 10mm drill holes 6mm into the board from the top, then say 10cm in from the tip you want it 12mm thick drill holes 4mm deep and so on, this way when you are profiling you will know you have gone far enough when the holes disappear. You can take the measurements from your existing board. When drilling the holes use the smallest drill bit you have incase you go to far(the holes can then be filled with resin when you are laying it up and should be too obvious) measure the drill bit with the depth you want to go and put a sticker round it at that depth so you know when to stop drilling
I can't see the dust, probably because my goggles are covered in it!
I don't think the duradurf wrinkles once it is bonded otherwise there would be a lot of wrinkly based snowboards on the market.
The durasurf will be epoxy bonded to the polyurathane during layup as you would with an epoxy rail, so I'm sure it will all be fine, slinghot have been doing it for a couple of years along with a few other manufacturers not to mention most of the mass production snowboards now.
I can't imagine how much glass a pine board would need to stop it being a wobble board?
I think to counteract springback and given the winter temperatures I will leave this one under vacuum for a week at least, especially with a target rocker of 70mm, judging by my last cedar board I am going to have to set the rocker table at 200mm and encourage the board down with some weights, it will definately have to be a two shot process or I will end up with imprints of the weights in the top laminate
Mate, you have been getting seriously busy with your boards. Just brilliant. Thanks for posting up so much great detail on your build.
I've been off line for a good while now with some other very distracting things but am starting to think about my next board. First things first I've got to make a better work space. Last time I built it on a dirt floor in my car port. Fortunately, we get sun in this part of the world so it not so bad:)